Neapolitan Traditional Tailoring Process

Sartoria Milanesi stitch


Expert’s point of view

Tailoring to the individual means personalizing the suits with mastery and cutting them with the utmost precision. Before cutting the fabrics, we meet a customer in one on one consultation to create a unique style based on his character, habits, behavior, body shape, Activity and his special needs. Then our experts model the lines of the jacket which are drawn out on an individual pattern to meet the customer’s exacting requirements.



Exclusive Fabrics

Choosing the right fabric is essential for creating timeless suits. Hundreds of exclusive and precious fabrics from windowpane to pinstripe and glen plaid are available in a wide variation of pattern and colors. Our experts explain the details of each fabric for a better understanding of their style and take the customer’s current wardrobe into consideration to match suits and accessories.

Our experts offer a significant advantage for customers who are building their wardrobe from the beginning. Each purchase will have solid reasoning behind it. Every newly added piece will be part of a precise plan. This way, all the customer’s wardrobe products will somehow be related to each other. We call this our “smart wardrobe building technique.”

Sartoria Milanesi handbasting canvas

The delicate hand-basting stage.

The Sartoria Milanesi unstructured Neapolitan-Shoulder jacket needs precise cutting and exceptional care during every single stage of manufacturing. Every manual gesture needs to be almost perfect.

The jacket structure components, such as the chest, lapels, and the collar are cut and hand-basted, this way forming the elements to your body shape, every single stitch done by the plan because by these stitching forming the component to exact shape, The jacket built around a free-floating canvas. Sartoria Milanesi hand basting is unique; the stitches are small and in different directions in each portion of the canvas.

This exclusive technique results in a series of anatomically precise functionalities. While moving the body in different directions, the hand-stitched structure naturally aligns with the same direction and creates a maximum free movement for the wearer.

Sartoria Milanesi Chest pocket tacking

Pocket tacking

Pocket tacking is a very significant step in bespoke tailoring which is created entirely by hand in a particular shape. This boat and curvy shape of Milanesi pocket detail is one that is noticeable from a distance.



Shoulder pads.

Our bespoke suits are shoulder pad free or have very light shoulder pads and a special cut to make the shoulder reverted and shifted toward a natural anatomic position. This provides the wearer with maximum comfort and mobility.


Sartoria Milanesi hgh armscye

High and Nerraw armscye

The height, Shape, and size of the armhole are three crucial elements to any jacket, Sartoria Milanesi armscye expert cutting the jacket armhole base on your body and arm shape in its highest possible point to allows for a spectacular increase in comfort and ease of movement.
Small and high armscye lets you move your arms independently from your jacket chest and shoulder pad.
Positioning the armscye as high as possible is a characteristic of Sartoria Milanesi bespoke tailoring. This way armscye fits close to the armpit, and arms will not be restricted to the chest and lapels of the jacket and will not move when your arms move.
Another factor of high armscye cut is the esthetic part of the correct cut armscye makes your arms look longer and slimming the silhouette. Jacket cut with high and small armscye by Milanesi tailors forces you to stand upright.

Collar and under-collar tacking

This step of our artwork is performed entirely by hand. Every single brilliant hand stitch exudes artistry while forming and shaping the collar.